Put your heating on yet?

[Crystal]

Your Breton prices are expensive Vic - we had a corde (3cu/m) delivered yesterday, 50cm lengths, carried in and stacked in our barn, for 180euros.

[suein56]

[mention]Crystal[/mention]
In dept 56 our ready-to-burn wood is more expensive than LAF would pay in dept 29 .. around 200€ per pallet of 2cu3 for already-cut-to-size 40 cm kiln dried logs.
But we live in an awkward to access area .. so that is the price
Fortunately our house is well insulated .. not to the latest standards, but not bad at all.

[Crystal]

Wow, that is really expensive Sue! - in that case I count myself lucky!

2 cordes usually sees us through until March, so our heating bill is less than 400 euros a year.

How much wood do others use?

[Hotrodder]

Feeling a bit ripped off by my wood man I have been thinking about buying from Brico Depot. They have stock in at the moment and it looks very good, as you say it is clean and uniformly split. I just need to find out the price.

I agree about the work involved with a woodburner and the dust it creates but I can't use a little lpg room heater or a petrole one. The burning of pretty much anything creates a toxic by product of some sort and in a closed environment those portable heaters affect my breathing in a matter of minutes.

From one of your posts it appears you have now lined the woodie's chimney.
How's it working now?

It's a lot quicker to fire up now, the glass doesn't soot up nearly as fast, and it is a little more controllable. Although if I slow down the burn rate it soots up quicker. We got through about 6 corde (18 m3) last year sat if front of it dressed like Eskimos.

[Crystal]

I'd had a stuffy nose in the evenings since we started to light our w/b, so replaced all of the 'absbestos' strings around the door, plus one round the top plate that I'd never noticed before It has made a big difference to the burning and if I close the vents at night, it's still lit in the morning, which saves a lot of bother...and no more stuffy nose.

We only have a problem with the glass sooting up if the wood isn't dry enough - or when OH is left in charge of the fire - he just doesn't get how the glass 'airwash' system works and insists on opening the bottom vents instead of controlling it with the top ones.

[L Austin France]

Feeling a bit ripped off by my wood man I have been thinking about buying from Brico Depot. They have stock in at the moment and it looks very good, as you say it is clean and uniformly split. I just need to find out the price.

I agree about the work involved with a woodburner and the dust it creates but I can't use a little lpg room heater or a petrole one. The burning of pretty much anything creates a toxic by product of some sort and in a closed environment those portable heaters affect my breathing in a matter of minutes.

From one of your posts it appears you have now lined the woodie's chimney.
How's it working now?

It's a lot quicker to fire up now, the glass doesn't soot up nearly as fast, and it is a little more controllable. Although if I slow down the burn rate it soots up quicker. We got through about 6 corde (18 m3) last year sat if front of it dressed like Eskimos.

On both of our Supra woodies the deflector plates were flimsy steel backed with some kind of lightweight insulation.
I modified both of them by casting a mesh reinforced slab of refractory concrete on them in an attempt to increase their temperature & get a secondary burn of the gasses which would otherwise disappear, unburnt, up the chimney.
The results were amazing with the temperature of the plates over 500 deg C measured by IR thermometer, & gas flames dancing about where they were now being burnt.
The heat output of the woodies went up considerably, the quantity of wood burnt reduced by about a third & considerably less muck to clean out of the flues.
Hell of a result for the cost of a sack of refractory concrete & a bit of work.

[Hotrodder]

Pardon my ignorance. Can you explain what deflector plates are? The only parts that are removeable on mine have no space to add anything behind them without blocking critical air passages that feed the circulating fan.

[Doug]

After the first gelee blanche this morning we have this evening lit the insert.
First time this year.

[L Austin France]

Pardon my ignorance. Can you explain what deflector plates are? The only parts that are removeable on mine have no space to add anything behind them without blocking critical air passages that feed the circulating fan.

It's the removeable plate,the width of the woodie, that sits at an angle in the top which turns the flue gasses & stops 'em disappearing straight up the flue. The cast refractory slab has to have a bevel to maintain the gap.
AKA a baffle plate.

[Hotrodder]

Thanks for the clarification.